Secrets of Fantastic Houseplants - Care of Indoor Plants

The Secrets of Fantastic Houseplants
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Everyone wants to know, "How often do I water?" There isn't, however, one definitive answer to this question.

A plant in a clay pot will need water three times as often as the same plant in plastic; a plant in a bright, hot, dry location will need water more often than a plant in a cool, dark, humid spot; a plant in a small pot will need water more often than a plant in a large pot. Watering requirements vary significantly based on the kind of plant and the environmental conditions.

How to Determine When to Water

The only answer to "how often" is "as often as needed." There are several ways to determine if a plant needs water.

You can feel the soil – for most plants, if it's dry about 1 inch into the soil, it's time to water. Stick your finger into the soil; if it comes out dirty, the plant probably doesn't need water. If your finger comes out clean, the soil is probably dry enough to water. Don't mistake the feel of cool soil for the feel of moist soil.

The weight and color of the soil are other indicators. Dry soil is lighter in weight and color than wet soil. It's easy to judge whether a small plant needs water by simply picking it up and comparing the weight to the feel of the plant when it's freshly watered.

You can use a tool called a "moisture meter" – just remember these devices measure conductivity and not actual moisture. Consequently, they are subject to inaccurate readings. Even dry soil will read as "wet" if there is a lot of salt in the soil. If you use a moisture meter, supplement the reading with a little common sense.

How to Water

Once you've decided your plant needs water, how do you do it? You may water from the top (by pouring water through the soil) or from the bottom (by letting the plant sit in a saucer of water).

Generally, the choice is a matter of preference or convenience. However, if you have let a plant wilt for lack of water, it's best to bottom-water. I have had excellent results using a vitamin-hormone solution called Super-Thrive™ in the water to help the plant overcome the stress. (See the section on Extra Nutrients.) Also, mist the plant heavily with hot water.

Whichever method you choose, water thoroughly! I like to top-water, pouring water into the pot up to the rim and allowing it to drain out. If there is adequate drainage, I repeat this process twice. Small cracks develop in dry soil, which tends to pull away from the pot slightly. Most of the water runs out these minute cracks at first, so it takes a second or third watering for the moisture to actually be absorbed into the soil. "Teasing" a plant with shallow watering causes the roots to reach up for water, creating a poor, shallow root system.

Special Watering Considerations

Plants in pots without drainage holes also should be well watered, but you must be careful to avoid water-logging the plant. Don't add so much water that the roots are sitting in water. Generally, you should water about 1/4 volume of the soil in the pot; i.e., if the pot holds four cups of soil, you should add one cup of water.

Never use water that has been through a water softener, as the salts can be harmful to plants. Always use warm water, so you don't shock the plant's roots. About an hour after watering, by whatever method, pour the excess water out of the saucer so the roots aren't water-logged.

Automatic Watering Systems

Self-watering pots maintain even, constant moisture in the soil at all times. This works well for plants requiring constant moisture. There are a number of different "self-watering" pots on the market, and they work in slightly different ways. Be sure to read and carefully follow the instructions for self-watering containers.

Wick watering is another watering method used extensively for African violets. Select a wick that is long enough to hang down out of the drain hole. Nylon fishing line or strips of old nylon stockings make suitable wicks. You can use a knitting needle or similar object to push the wick through a drain hole far up into the soil.

Set the pot above water (on a saucer filled with rocks, above a margarine tub with a hole in the lid, or above a wire frame) with the wick hanging down into the water. Moisture will be absorbed through the wick into the soil evenly. You may also run a wick out the top of the pot to a glass of water nearby.

FEEDING, GROOMING, AND PREVENTIVE MEDICINE

Plants require more than the proper environment and watering. They must be fed, cleaned and groomed, and protected from or treated for insects and diseases.

Feeding

Plants, like people, need food. Root feeding is feeding through the soil and, consequently, the roots. This is usually done in the water. How much and how often to fertilize depends on how much the plant is growing and whether or not it is blooming.

Blooming plants like African violets do well when fertilized constantly. There are fertilizers on the market designed to be used with every watering or in the reservoirs of wick watering pots. This method is effective because it maintains a constant level of food in the soil, rather than hitting the plants with a strong fertilizer, starving them for weeks, and then zapping them with a heavy dose of fertilizer again. It's less shocking to the plant and more convenient to the caretaker! Just be sure you're using a weak fertilizer solution designed for constant use. Read the fertilizer label – look for one that says "constant-feed," "use with every watering," or something similar.

Foliar feeding is supplemental fertilizing through the foliage. Plants can absorb more readily through their leaves than through their roots, so this method is good for lush, green foliage on plants that are growing rapidly. Since most homes don't offer conditions suitable for rapid growth, foliar feeding is usually best for plants summering outside.

Plants that aren't growing should be fertilized sparingly. If you have plants in low light, they are probably surviving but not thriving, maintaining but not growing. Don't fertilize these plants more than once a year, and then with a dilute solution of fertilizer. Over-fertilizing is more damaging than under-fertilizing, so when in doubt – don't!

Extra Nutrients

In addition to food, it's a good idea to use a root stimulator or vitamin/hormone solution such as Super-Thrive, when the plant is under stress. A supplement, not a food, this enhances growth, reduces transplant shock, and helps plants recover from trauma. It can be mixed in the same solution with fertilizer.

You can buy potting mix, fertilizer, and most items you need for routine plant maintenance at a discount store, a home improvement center, or even a grocery store. However, some products are available only at nurseries, garden centers, and plant stores.

Cleaning and Grooming

Just as we humans need protection from disease, so do plants. One of the most important elements of preventive medicine is cleanliness. Wash the leaves of your plants with warm water. Use sponges or paper towels on both the top and bottom surfaces of the leaves.

The healthiest plant can look bad if it's not well groomed. We take pride in our own appearance; so should we take pride in the appearance of our plants.

Keep all pots and foliage clean by wiping with a damp paper towel or washing under running water.

Plants need to be pinched and pruned just as we need to trim our hair and nails occasionally. If a plant such as coleus or ivy tends to get long and scraggly, just pinch out the new growth with your fingertips. This will help the plant to grow bushier and fuller.

For larger, woodier plants, prune with scissors or clippers to keep the plant shapely and attractive.

Remove all dead leaves and spent blossoms regularly. I've had people tell me they're afraid to take off dead leaves, but your plants will be healthier if you remove yellowing leaves even before the leaf totally turns brown and dies.

If a leaf has brown edges (often caused by low humidity), trim the leaf to remove the discoloration. If the tipping covers a larger area, remove the entire leaf. If you leave a lot of trimmed leaves, the plant will put its energy into trying to save those leaves. It's better to remove a damaged leaf and let the plant put its energy into growing new leaves.

When you do trim a leaf, be sure to keep the same shape as the original leaf. For example, if the leaf is oval-shaped, trim the edges to make a slightly smaller oval. Don't chop the leaf in half or cut out a piece so it no longer looks like a leaf. If you have to remove that much of the leaf, take it all off.

Your plants won't feel any pain from the trimming or removal of damaged foliage, and they'll feel great when they can take pride in their appearance!

Preventing Insects and Disease

Keeping the foliage clean is the first line of defense against insects. Wiping the foliage helps prevent insects – bugs love to live in the dirt, and removing the dust also removes insects and their eggs.

Paying attention to your plants also helps you spot infestations when they begin. Signs of insect infestation include tiny red, yellow, brown, or white specks on the leaves. Check out the resources listed at the end of this guide for Web sites and books that give detailed explanations and photographs of plant problems.

Spraying a dilute rubbing alcohol solution will kill many insects, such as mites and mealy bugs. Just mix alcohol and water in a ratio of about one part alcohol to four parts water. Don't use full-strength alcohol because it will dry out your plants. Spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves of plants you suspect may have a problem.

You can also use natural insecticidal soap to clean your plants and treat mild insect infestations.

We've already talked about the importance of light – a plant in good light will be more resistant to insects and disease than a plant in poor light. And it's not just the amount of light in the area that's important; it's the amount actually reaching the leaves. Keeping the foliage clean increases the amount of light that reaches the surface of the leaves.

Poor air circulation also contributes to problems – plants in areas with poor circulation are especially vulnerable to fungus diseases. It's best to avoid putting plants into corners, under stairwells, and in other areas without good circulation.

Where to Get Advice about Plant Problems

It's best to prevent infestations and to treat them early by natural means when they do occur. If you have to resort to chemicals, ask the advice of a trusted professional for an effective and safe treatment. As mentioned previously, you will find professionals at businesses devoted to plants rather than at stores where plants are an afterthought off in a corner. Most garden centers, plant stores, and nurseries are staffed by qualified professionals who love plants.

You can also get advice from the resources listed at the end of this article – for example, one Web site offers a free e-mail diagnostic service. Some of the books listed have pictures of specific problems and recommended solutions.

Agricultural extension services and college horticulture departments are also excellent sources of information. You may be able to get advice for free by phone or mail by calling your county extension office or a nearby college.

YOUR THUMB IS TURNING GREEN!

You really aren't a hopeless case! If you've never had success with houseplants before, you may have selected the wrong plants or put them in the wrong conditions. Maybe you over-watered or over-fertilized. But now you know a few simple techniques.

You can select the right plant for your conditions and take the proper steps to help the plant adjust to its new home. You can choose the right size pot and a good potting mix, and you know when to repot. You know about light, temperature, and humidity. You can water, feed, and groom your plants.

You may have a brown thumb from sticking your finger in the soil to check the moisture level, but you can have healthy, thriving houseplants just like the so-called "green thumb."